Types of Trade Jade

Jade is one of those stones most people know. Used for centuries and known for being tough enough to make bells and musical instruments from yet it can be easy scratched or carved.  Many think they can identify it easily but they may be wrong. 

First Jade come in two different types Jadeite and nephrite. Both have a monoclinic crystal structure with a vistreous luster, can come in mixed colors and are translucent to opaque. Then the differences start: 

Nepharite's chemical makeup of Ca2(Mg,Fe)5(Si4O11)2(OH)2  jadeite is Na(Al,Fe3+)Si2O6. 

Their hardness differs, Jadeite has a hardness of 6.5-7 vrs nephrite 6-6.5. 

Their specific gravity/ density is jadeite averaging 3.34, nephrite averages 2.95

Nephrite is normally found in larger masses, so it is the common jade in sculptures.

Many fall in love with the look of jade but not the price. Our market,  today and past, has answered that need with other stones as jade simulations. Such stones are given trade names meant to convey they are NOT jade. Some jewelry designers who purchase them are so used to hearing it they assume it means location mined. So what are they? Here is a short list:

African Jade is quartz
American Jade is idocrase
Ching Hai Jade is a blend of dolomite and fuchsite 
Indian Jade aventurine
Korean Jade is serpentine
Malaysian Jade is serpentine
Mexican Jade is quartz marble
Mountain Jade is dolomite
New Jade is serpentine
Transvaal Jade is hydrogrossular garnet

Trade jade can be a lovely alternative on a budget. As a lover of all gemstones, I am not saying they are not to be purchased. I have seen amazing necklaces and earrings made with them. What I am saying is if you are purchasing jade for investment, know what you are buying.

Lead Free Crystal Glass

You can tell them apart, with practice and light. This is not just for jewelry. It applies to bowls, goblets, flutes, anything crafted of glass and marketed as crystal. 

True crystal has a rainbow of color caused by small amounts of lead being mixed with the glass while it is being made. It is not a coating on the outside. It does not scratch off. This makes crystal naturally heavier then true glass. It may just be a slight difference, but it will be heavier if it is crystal. 

The color play is easy to see if you have natural light. Take this Swarovski bicone crystal bracelet I made: 

You can see the colors, if you move it around, the colors shift too. Compared to these vintage clip on  earrings which are cut glass, not crystal:   

It reflects the blue under it well but does not have the color shifting property of the crystal shown above. It is also easier to see through for the same reason. 

I hope this helps you identify crystal from glass. I would be interested in hearing your experience with misidentified crystal/glass. Feel free to comment below. 

Vintage Must Mean Old

Vintage jewelry is a tricky category.  For one thing vintage is a broad term, that means very little in value. It basically means over 10 years, which mean me and many of my friend qualify as "vintage" Still its is a popular term for old leading to the obvious question, "how old is it?"

There are ways to determine the age of jewelry, but few are foolproof. The thinness of the metal, the makers marks, the presence of pat. pending indicating pre trademark rules are only guidelines. I've seen old pieces in pristine condition like my 1960's Beau sterling silver and jet pin shown here

and 5 year old abused jewelry ignored until it looked over 100 years old.  This is especially true of chains.

The design itself can be a clue, but since things have gone in and out of style repeatedly. So be wary of looks old. The above Beau pin is in an older classic style, but we know Beau jewelry only started in 1947. In this case the mark, gemstone, metal and setting indicate the age. The fact that this had been kept in the original box with the receipt also helped keep it looking pristine.

So if you are just beginning to collect vintage jewelry I urge you to research and learn. Many wonderful pieces are over looked because they look to new. Many newer items are passed off as vintage because it looks old.